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Post by gabus on Aug 9, 2012 11:38:24 GMT -5
Ok, so I have a ton of models I need to strip, most of which are metal.
What are you guys using OTHER than simple green that is working for you? I am using simple green now, and is is OK, but leaving a lot of paint behind that I have to scrape.
Please include brand, and where I can get it. Whether it is safe for metal or plastic, and your success/familiarity with it.
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Post by Silent Bob on Aug 9, 2012 12:47:57 GMT -5
On metal, I use Bix stripper. Works like a champ. I also use an ultrasonic grout brush after the mini is done soaking and cleaned off a bit. Works better than a toothbrush.
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Post by ogre44 on Aug 9, 2012 12:51:02 GMT -5
For plastics you can use Easy Lift Off, just don't let them soak too long.
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Post by skiman on Aug 9, 2012 14:42:13 GMT -5
I've tried them all (Easy-off, Simple Green, Brake cleaner, Pine-Sol, etc), and Scalecoat Paint Remover is the best...... www.modeltrainstuff.com/Scalecoat-Model-RR-Paint-10568-Wash-Away-Paint-Str-p/smz-10568-wea-10568.htmYou can leave parts to soak in it indefinitely, and it won't harm plastic or metal. Most paint simply falls off after a day or two of soaking in a small glass jar (I use old short, wide olive jars). Shaking the sealed jar from time to time accelerates the process. Some crevasses may need a light brushing with an old toothbrush. Some real stubborn paint may need a brushing and re-soak. Works for all kinds of paint - latex, acrylic, and even enamel. Also, it's reusable. After soaking and removing the parts, let the paint debris settle on the bottom of the container. Slowly drain the clear remover to a clean container, being careful not to transfer over the settled paint debris. I use a coffee filer just in case. The clear transferred scalecoat is now ready for another round of soaking. Then, clean the bottom of the used jar, and it's ready for the next transfer. Using this method, one jar of scalecoat would last me 6 months of weekly re-use, to strip original paint off of hundreds of HO scale slot car bodies. I needed to get down to a clean white body, suitable for custom air-brushed paint jobs. I used to buy it at Nankin Hardware & Hobby in Westland for $7 a bottle. Not sure if they still sell it, but can check. I still have three bottles in reserve. |
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Post by pickles on Aug 9, 2012 16:19:31 GMT -5
Stripping Models? .... this was NOT the post I was expecting....dammit
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Post by CmdrKiley on Aug 17, 2012 14:59:32 GMT -5
Stripping Models? .... this was NOT the post I was expecting....dammit Here ya go Winters.  |
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Post by CmdrKiley on Aug 17, 2012 15:03:44 GMT -5
I simply use Pinesol. Straight up, no water.
Why you say?
1) It works
2) It's already available in my house in large quantities, don't need to go shopping for it.
3) Leaves your minis in a pine fresh smell.
After soaking the figures for a day or two, I'll pull them out and scrub them with an old toothbrush. Using some automotive pumice hand soap helps get the rough spots out.
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Post by eviljim on Aug 19, 2012 8:34:18 GMT -5
I usually use Castrol Superclean. I get it pretty cheap in the automotive area of Walmart. Don't leave your minis in it very long though cause it will dissolve plastic minis. Make sure you wear gloves and eye protection because this stuff is a little harsh. I usually leave metal minis in it for about 24 hours and with a little rinse and a light touching up with a tooth brush they're fine.
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